Early on a weekend morning, Tianping Lu throngs with hungry locals. The street is lined with stalls, each offering a different type of breakfast snack: bags of soya milk, fried dough sticks, round sourbread sandwiches and savoury pancakes. The queue and our noses both agree that the latter is the star attraction and 10 minutes of the most orderly queuing I've ever seen in china later and we're tucking into something magical. I can only try to explain it: a pancake with an egg cracked over it, a sprinkling of spring onion, a smear of dark almost marmite sauce and optional spice - wrapped around a sheet of deep fried crispy pastry. Oh yes!