Every friday, thousands of Mexicans flock to a seedy part of town and into L'Arena stadium to see the Luchadors wrestle.
Outside the stadium is teeming with fans, peddlers, stalls, trucks, food, animals. Everybody and their donkey has come to see tonight's series of fights in the squared circle. Five thousand people are climging over each other to see their favorites go head to head. Luckily the throng is in high spirits and we westerners are welcomed with broad smiles and a £3.50 ticket.
Mexico adopted the US form of Kayfabe entertainment in the 1940's. They added identity hiding masks and replaced heavyweight power-moves with high flying acrobatics. The main wrestlers are treated as heroes. "he was an orphan child, cleaning the locker room - sparring for fun with the big guys, now he's the best in the world" one ecstatic fan told me when I asked why everybody goes bananas when Mystico entered the arena.
The wrestling is of amazing quality. We're led through a series of bouts - each character struts out to themed music, fireworks and a trademark pose. Hilarious.
Action is hard-hitting and although we all know they setting up (or selling) each other the moves their abilities are hugely impressive - we're all yelling and chanting along with the full house.
Before long out pops our Hero, Mystico, for the final match. After a sequence of twists and turns including broken chairs, knocked out referees, 8 foot dives and bloody chests its 1-2-3 and victory to the champion and happy faces all round.
Brilliant fun and not to be missed on a Friday night. This was the Mexico DF highlight.