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The San Telmo museum is one of the most impressive museums in the world. Almost tucked away on the far side of the old side of town; only Nieto Sobejano's recent extension distinguishes it from the surrounding plaza. Thank heavens for that unsubtle, punctured grey facade; For those who stroll by and wander in will see something utterly incredible in a beautiful museum wrapped in an archaic setting.

The incredible part of the museum lies at its core. Down one corridor, into a tidy cloister and ducking under a half-sized door there is a 16th Century Church. It's a system shock. This shouldn't be here. Did they really install an entire church into this museum? Sublime.

The Church's Apse and lofty nave are covered in Josef Maria Sert's frescoes. They're being meticulously and painfully restored - squares of tissue paper accentuate how seriously the Basques are taking the project. How seriously the Basques take themselves is left to the rest of the museum. Turns out they invented the television, bicycle and the sewing machine.

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